Saturday 19 May 2012

Training, training and more training.

So lately all i've been doing is training, with the odd bit of trying to get out. Although i've been quite careful because of my finger injury, which is frustrating because i trained so hard to get my crimp strength up and now i cant use it! Well, i can't use it past a certain extent.

So the latest aim was to get my lock working because it was useless, after a session with Lucinda Whittaker, i quickly got my lock technique right, turned out i had been lifting my elbow when trying to lock so i couldn't use it so much. After practicing keeping my elbow down it has gotten stronger and i've definitely noticed a difference! Still wanting to get a whole lot stronger for the BBC's on the 7/8th of July,  but i do think my experience at the CWIF in the semi-finals will put me in a stronger position because those problems were hard, and im hoping the finals at the BBC's will feel relatively easy, and im hoping them to be quite powerful! feeling the comp style lately! fingers crossed!

I also turned 16 on the 16th of May which means i am now in the Youth A category for the new BBC format, putting me with other 16 and 17 year olds. Will be interesting to experience a new format, and i heard that depending on your performance at the BBC's you may be selected to go and compete in the European Youth Bouldering Championships or whatever they are, no idea how thats going to work. Even if i happened to win the BBC's (Here's to hoping) or come in the top 3, im not on the british junior team, because i dont sport climb, and they dont have a junior bouldering team. Good one that. So who knows whats gonna go down.

But away from the training front, i did manage to get to stanage the other weekend. Can't say it was a brilliant day, it was quite warm, and The Green Traverse is one problem i just cant seem to get, without even warming up i did the crux move in isolation, then i warmed up, pulled on, and failed so many times it was unreal. So frustrating! Next time though, after a huge failing session i had a go on the business boulder i think it was and managed to flash Jerrys Finish 6C, an easy problem with a horrible topout, was well greasy, but i managed to belly flop my way over the top, so graceful!

Anyway, just thought i would do a bit of an update, nothing interesting really. Hoping to get out tomorrow if the weather is kind, very much doubt it, the most likely case will be a moster session at the works, peace out!

And here's the video of me completing problem 2 at the ASBO, the only woman to do so too!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=421048681248235&set=vb.185470951501038&type=2&theater

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